Lockstitch knit fabric and method of making same



Dec. 11, 1934. J. TITONE 1,984,326

LOCKSTITQH KNIT FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Feb. 24, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 l/VVE/Y 70/3 (JOSEPH Ira/v5,

- Vlfw 1 1934- J. TITONE 1,984,326

LOCKSTITCH KNIT FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Flair/f NIKE/V705:

OSEPH 7770/YE,

Patented Dec. 11, 1934 v PAT ENT orFrcE LOCKSTITCH KNIT FABRIC AND DIE'I'HOD OF MAKING SABIE Joseph Titone, Riverbank, N. 1., assignor to Neidich CeI-Lus-Tra Corporation, Burlington,

N. .I., a corporation of New Jersey Application February 24, 1934, Serial No. 712,713

1'! Claims.

My invention relates to fabric which may be knit upon a flat machine of the Raschel type, and is advantageously employed in the manufacture of brassires and similar corseting garments.

As hereinafter described; a brassiere fabric in accordance with my inventon includes a central portion of sufficient area to cover both breasts, formed of knit fabric which is inelastic in every direction but has a comparatively narrow border at the top and bottom thereof which is elastic in the direction of its length which corresponds with the direction around the body of the wearer, but is inelastic in any transverse direction, to wit, vertically with respect to the body of the wearer; said central portion having at its opposite ends narrower extensions of knit fabric which is elastic in every direction; said extensions being adapted to be seamed. together, at the back of the wearer, to form a zone which is held in position by the elasticity of said borders and extensions.

As hereinafter described, a modified form of my invention includes the provision of a narrow fabric portion connecting the borders of said central inelastic fabric, between thebreasts', and elastic inevery direction. My invention includes the 'various novel features of construction and arrangement hereinafter more definitely specified.

In said drawings, Fig. I is a perspective view of a brassiere fabric as it comes from the knitting machine, wherein the intermediate portion, for the breast pockets, is inelastic in every direction but has top and bottom borders which are elastic in the direction of the length of the fabric.

Fig. II is a perspective view of a brassire formed from the fabric shown in Fig. I by sewing the ends of the extensions together and forming a dart intermediate of the length of the inelastic breast pocket portion, after cutting therefrom a gore which is wide at the middle and tapers toward each breast. 1 I

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a modified form of my invention forming a brassire having a vertically extending narrow elastic web connecting the elastic borders between the breast pockets and with the inelastic fabric of said pockets shaped by forming darts at the opposite ends thereof where respective gores have been removed, such gores being wider at their outer ends than at the inner ends of the darts.

Fig IV is a diagram of a fragment of the upper part of the fabric indicated in Figs. I and II; including a preferable pattern of threads at the junction between the inelastic breast pocket portion and the elastic extension thereof to the lef in Fig. II. v

Fig. V is a diagram of a fragmentof the upper part of the fabric indicated in Fig. III; including a preferable pattern of threads for the central elastic web, and at the junction between the inelastic breast pocket portion and the elastic extension thereof to the left in Fig. 111.

Referring to Fig. I, the brassire fabric as it comes from the flat knitting machine of the Raschel type includes the intermediate portion 1 which is inelastic in every direction and which is designed to form a pocket'for both breasts. That portion of the fabric has top and bottom borders 2 which are elastic in the direction of the length of the fabric, but not otherwise.

Said central portion 1 has at its opposite ends narrower extensions of knit fabric 3 which is elastic in every direction. The junctions between the portions 1 and 3 of the fabric are indicated at 4, where the ends of the threads of said portions are lockstitched together. Said extensions 3 are adapted to be seamed together at the back of the wearer, as indicated at 5 in Fig. II, to form a zone which is held in position upon the body of the wearer by the elasticity of said borders 2 and extensions 3.

In order to form separate compartments in said pocket portion 1 of the fabric, for the respective breasts, I find it convenient to cut from said fabric a gore 6 which, as indicated by dash lines in Fig. I, is wide at the middle and tapers toward each breast, and to scam the edges of the opening in said fabric 1 together forming a dart- '7, thus completing the shaping of the fabric shown in Fig. I to form one type of brassire shown in Fig. II.

Fig. 111 shows a modified form of brassire which may be made from the fabric indicated in Fig. I. The form shown in Fig. 111 differs from that shown in Fig. 11 in the way. the separate breast compartments are formed, ,to wit, by forming darts 9 at the opposite ends of the inelastic portion 1 of the fabric where respective gores have been removed, such gores being wider at their outer ends than at the inner ends of said darts 9.

As indicated in Fig. III, a modified'form of my invention includes the provision of a narrow fabric web 10 connecting the borders 2, 2, of the central inelastic fabric 1, between the breasts and elastic in every direction. That web 10 is knit under tension transversely to the direction of the length of the fabric 1, so that when released from the knitting machine it contracts and draws the fabric 1 together between the breasts, as indicated in Fig. III, thus drawing the central portion of the fabric 1 to the form shown in Fig. II but without the necessity of forming the dart '1.

The flat knitting machine upon which said fabric is formed includes a front needle bar, a back needle bar, and three guide bars for thread. Said fabric is conveniently formed of four different kinds of thread, to wit, mercerized cotton threads 12 and 13, composite mercerized cotton and silk threads 14, 15,. '16, and 1'7, lightweight elastic threads 19 and 20, and heavyweight elastic threads 21 and 22, respectively directed to the needles by the guide bars.

In the pattern shown in Fig. IV, the threads 12, 14, 19, and 21 may be operated for three hundred and four loose stitches to form the left hand 3 in Fig. II. The threads 12, 14, 15, 19, and 21 may then be operated for eight tight stitches to connect the left band with the left end of the breast pocket 1 in Fig. II. Thereupon, the threads 14, 15, and 21 maybe operated for three hundred and four tight stitches to form the breast pocket 1. Thereupon, the threads 12, 14, 15, 19, and 21 may be operated for eight tight stitches to connect the right hand end of the breast pocket 1 to the right hand band 3. Thereupon, the threads 12, 14, 19, and 21 may be operated for three hundred and four loose stitches to form the right hand band 3. The threads 12 and 21 make the elastic border 2 at the top of the breast pocket 1 and also at the bottom thereof, in the manner indicated at the top of Fig. IV.

It may be observed that the threads 15 of the breast pocket 1 are discontinuous with respect to the threads in said flat sections 3, and the threads 19 of the flat sections 3 are discontinuous with respect to the threads in said pockets 1; and said threads 15 and 19 are interlooped and lockstitched together in the junctions 4. 5 In the pattern shown in Fig. V, the threads 13, ,16, 20, and 22 may be operated for three hundred and four loose stitches to form the left band 3 in Fig. III. The threads 13, 16, 1'7, 20, and 22 may then be operated for eight tight stitches to connect the left band with the left end of the breast pocket 1 in Fig. III. Thereupon, the threads 16, 17, and 22 may be operated for one hundred and forty tight stitches to. form the breast pocket at the left in Fig. Ill. The threads 13, 16, 17, 20, and 22 may then be operated for twenty'four tight stitches to form the central elastic web 10 between the left and right breast pockets in Fig. III. Thereupon, the threads 16, 17, and 22 may be operated for one hundred and forty tight stitches to form the breast pocket at the right in Fig. III. The threads 13, 16, 17, 20, and 22 may then be operated for eight tight stitches to connect the breast pocket at the right in Fig. III to the band 3 at the right in Fig. III. The threads 13, 16, 20, and 22 may then be operated for three hundred and four loose stitches to form said band 3 at the right in Fig. III. The threads 13 and 22 make the elastic border 2 at the top of Fig. III and also the border 2 at the bottom thereof, in the manner indicated at the top of Fig. V. It may be observed that the threads 17 of the breast pocket 1 are discontinuous with respect to the threads in said flat section 3, and the threads 20 of the flat sections 3 are discontinuous with respect to the threads in said pockets 1; and said threads 1'7 and 20 are interlooped and lockstitched together in the junctions 1.

However, it is to be understood that any other pattern may be employed in said fabrics. Therefore, I do not desire to limit myself to the precise details of construction, arrangement, or method of manufacture herein set forth, as it is obvious that various modifications may be made therein without departing from the essential features of my invention, as defined in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In a lockstitch knit elastic fabric, for corseting garments; the combination, ina continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, of a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric which is elastic both longitudinally and transversely; and a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets of inelastic fabric, having borders of elastic fabric at the opposite edges of said strip, and individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said flat sections; all of the threads forming said strip extending longitudinally therein, but having lateral interloops forming the lockstitches for preventing any run in said fabric from any hole made therein; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said flat sections and some threads in said fiat sections being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said pockets.

2. In a lockstitch knit elastic fabric, for corset ing garments; the combination, in a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, of a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric which is elastic; a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets of inelastic fabric, having bordersof elastic fabric at the opposite edges of said strip, and individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said fiat sections; all of the threads forming said strip extending longitudinally therein, but having lateral interloops forming the lockstitches for preventing any run in said fabric from any hole made therein; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said fiat sections. a 3. In a lockstitch knitelastic fabric, for corseting garments; the combination, in a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, of a longitudinal series of fiat sections of fabric which is elastic; a longitudinal series of concavo convexbreast pockets, having borders of elastic fabric at the opposite edges of said strip, and individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said flat sections; all of the threads forming said strip extending longitudinally therein,

but having lateral interloops forming the lockstitches for preventing any run in said. fabric from any hole made therein; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said fiat sections.

4. In a lockstitch knit elastic fabric, for corseting garments; the combination, in alconti'nuous integrally knit self-edged strip, of a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric which is elastic; a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets, individually interposed between and connected in spaced relationby said flat sec tions; all of the threads forming said strip extending longitudinally therein, but having lateral interloops forming the lockstitches for preventing any run in said fabric from any hQle made therein; some threads in said pockets being grally knit self-edged strip, of a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric; a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets, individually interposed between and connectedin spaced relation by said flat sections; all of the threads forming said strip extending longitudinally.

therein, but having lateral interloops forming the lockstitches for preventing any run in said fabric from any hole made therein; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said fiat sections.

" 6. In a lockstitch knit elastic fabric, for corseting garments; the combination, in a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, of a longitudinal series of fiat sections of fabric which is elastic both longitudinally and transversely; a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets having borders of elastic fabric at the opposite edges of said strip, and individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said fiat sections; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said flat sections.

8. In a lockstitch knit elastic fabric, for corseting garments; the combination, in a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, of a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric which is elastic; a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets, individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said fiat sections; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous-with respect to the threads in said flat sections.

9. In a lockstitch knit fabric, for corseting garments; the combination, in a continuous inte-.

grally knit self -edged stripfof a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric; a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets, individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said fiatsections; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said fiat sections.

10. The process of forming a plurality of corseting garments, which consists first in forming a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, including a longitudinal series of flat. sections of fabric, and, a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said flat sections; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said flat sections; severing said stripintermediate of the length of the sections between the breast pockets; thus forming separate pieces of fabric each including a breast pocket with flat sections at opposite ends thereof; and then connecting the opposite ends of each such'piece to form a corseting garment zone.

11. A processas in claim 10, including the steps of cutting a gore opening in each breast pocket and seaming the edges of the opening together to form a dart to divide said pocket in separate compartments for the respective'breasts.

12. A process as in claim 10, including the steps of cutting a gore opening in each breast pocket and seaming the edges of the opening together to form a dart.

13. The process of forming a plurality of cor-, seting garments, which consists first in forming its length and threads a continuous integrally lmit self-edged strip, including a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric, and a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said flat sections; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to thethreads in said flat sections; said fiat sections being elastic in the direction of their length; severing said strip intermediate of the length of the sections between the breast pockets; thus forming separate pieces of fabric each including a breast pocket with fiat sections at opposite ends thereof; and then connecting the opposite ends of each such piece to form a corseting garment zone.

14; The process of forming a plurality of corseting garments, which consists first in forming a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, including a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabric, and a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast-pockets individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said fiat sections; said breast pockets having borders at the opposite edges of said strip, elastic in the direction of their length; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said flat sections; said flat sections ends of each such piece to form a corseting garment zone.

15. The process of forming a plurality of corseting garments, which consists first in forming a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, including a longitudinal series of fiat sections of fabric, and a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets individually interposed between and connected in-spaced relation by said flat sections; each of said pockets having a central web connecting the opposite edges of the strip and elastic transversely with respectto the strip; said breast pockets having borders at the opposite edges of said strip, elastic in the direction of their length; some threads in said pockets being discontinuous with respect to the threads in said flat sections; said flat sections being elastic in the direction of their length; severing said strip intermediate of the length of the sections between the breast pockets; thus forming separate pieces of fabric each including a breast pocket with flat sections at opposite ends therezone.

16. In a lockstitch knit elastic fabric, for corseting garments; the combination, in a con-' tinuous integrally'knit self-edged strip, including threads extending therein in the direction of extending therein obliquely with respect to the direction of its length, of a longitudinal series of flat sections of fabricwhich is elastic both longitudinally and transversely; and a longitudinal series of concavo convex breast pockets of inelastic fabric, having borders of elastic fabric at the opposite edges of said strip, and individually interposed between and connected in spaced relation by said flat sections; all of the threads forming said strip extending longitudinally therein, but having lateral interloops forming the lockstitches for preventing any run in said fabric from any hole m'ade therein, some oblique threads in said pockets being discontinuous-with respect to the threads in said fiat sections, and some oblique threads in said flat sections being discontinuous 5 with respect to the threads in said pockets.

17. In a lockstitch knit elastic fabric, for a corseting garment; the combination, in a continuous integrally knit self-edged strip, of a concavo convex breast pocket of inelastic fabric,

-'-10 having borders of elastic fabric at the opposite edges of said strip, and two flat sections of fabric which is elastic both longitudinally and "trans versely; said fiat sections being joined to said pocket at the respectively opposite ends of the latter; somethreads in said pocket being discon- I 

